The Uinta Basin, bordered on the north by the Uinta mountains and on the west by the Wasatch mountains, attracts visitors from all over the country. It’s home to King’s Peak, the tallest mountain in Utah, standing at 13,528 feet. Creeks that flow south out of the Uinta mountains all eventually flow into the Green River. In its upper stretches, the Green River boasts blue ribbon trout fishing. Lower down, through the Gates of Lodore and Desolation canyons, the river houses spectacular white water and relics of human history spanning 2,000 years. In Vernal Utah, the largest community in the Uinta Basin, the relics of ancient peoples and pioneers can be found under nearly every cliff face and next to the clear flowing springs.
Where does one begin if they want to take in all these sights? From the town of Vernal you’re within 30 minutes of any number of petroglyphs and pictograph sites that are easily accessible. A quick note on the difference; a petroglyph is carved into the rock, while a pictograph is painted on. (Petroglyphs are ‘pecked’ and pictographs are ‘pictures’ is a handy way to remember). I suggest starting with McConkie Ranch. Head up Dry Fork north of Vernal. It’s an easy 20 minute drive on paved roads. McConkie ranch provides easy access to a number of large panels of Fremont petroglyphs. They are free to view, though donations are welcome. An easy uphill hike takes you within touching distance of the petroglyphs (but don’t touch!). It’s a one mile round trip hike to view all of them, and is an ideal trail for families with young children.
The Fremont people – named after the Fremont River – were nomadic peoples that lived in the area some 2,000 to 700 years ago. They are classified as archaic peoples and were gone before Europeans ever stepped foot on American soil. For this reason, we don’t know what they called themselves. The petroglyphs at McConkie ranch are emblematic of the Fremont style. Trapezoidal figures, with broad shoulders and narrow hips are adorned with headdresses and necklaces, standing in a line with many other figures done in a similar style.
The Fremont roamed around large swaths of present-day Utah leaving numerous petroglyph panels. Another can’t miss spot is Cub Creek north of Jensen, Utah. Again, the petroglyphs here boast trapezoidal figures in decorative garb. There are also pictures of bighorn sheep, lizards, and cryptic symbology whose meaning is anyone’s guess. In fact, no one knows why the Fremont left petroglyphs. They could have been done for religious purposes, or as a message board for other peoples, or even as an attempt to woo a lover.
Another great rock art site accessible by car is McKee Springs located on the Island Park road on the northern face of the iconic Split Mountain. Both Cub Creek and McKee springs are within Dinosaur National Monument, which takes its name from the impressive Dinosaur quarry located at the Jensen entrance to the monument. The monument itself is lousy with petroglyphs, pioneer relics, and fossils. If you find yourself in Vernal, it’s a must see, and has a little something for everyone; whether it be the anthropologist, the archaeologist, or the thrill seeker. Grab a map at the visitor center and take a step back in time for a day.
On our four- and five-day rafting trips through Dinosaur National Monument we encounter multiple rock art sites. Particularly along Colorado’s world-famous Yampa River. This stretch of river canyon was a perfect location for the native peoples to hunt, gather, farm and live a peaceful existence along the incredible canyon walls. A popular stop along this trip is Johnson Canyon where there are several well preserved pictographs tucked up underneath a ledge where they are well protected. Another perfect stop along the river is Jones Hole creek where a four-mile round trip hike leads you to the Deluge Shelter and a wall covered in petroglyphs and pictographs.
Whether you visit Dinosaurland by car or boat there are numerous areas where you will be able to view the beautiful scenery and wonderful rock art.
