Dinosaur National Monument – Page 2 – Dinosaur River Expeditions

Visit Utah Film Trip

Posted on January 26, 2020 at 9:41 am.

Each raft trip we guide along the Green and Yampa Rivers are unique and special in their own way. Whether this be the great people that you meet, the animals you see, scenery, rapids or any number of things along the way each trip is truly special. One trip that stood out for me during the 2019 summer season was a film trip with Visit Utah. Visit Utah is the state of Utah’s travel and tourism marketing department. Visit Utah reached out to us to help guide and host a film trip with the sole purpose of getting high quality video and photography to market Dinosaur National Monument and river rafting along the Green River Gates of Lodore. Visit Utah is promoting lesser known areas of Utah to tourists looking to see the spectacular sights we have here. They are also looking to promote local guide and outfitters in these lesser known areas. As Vernal, Utah’s only locally owned and operated outfitter we were the chosen company. The end results of this co op after six months of editing and refining the video and photos is nothing less than stunning and world class. Visit Utah and there team did a fantastic job of capturing the essence of Dinosaur Monument and what it maybe like to take a river rafting trip along the route of the Green River. This section of the Green River through the Gates of Lodore canyon begins its journey in Colorado’s Brown Park region. With that said most commercial rafting trips begin and end their adventures in Vernal, Utah.

The trip started out as usual with a pre trip meeting at our Vernal, Utah office meeting the guests and film crew, getting them oriented as to what to expect the next four days and providing them with dry bags for day gear and camp time gear. This meeting also provided us an opportunity to learn about what the KNHO film crew would need from us to successfully accomplish their vision while traversing the river canyon. We learned a lot at this meeting and were able to prepare with adequate dry boxes and storage systems for the multitude of cameras, laptops, chargers, solar panels and assorted gear that was required to obtain the high quality footage they took.

The guests were an incredible family that were full of life and excitement wanting to experience as much of the river trip as possible. Nushin (mom) and her three children Layla, Noah and Eesa were chosen from an online audition process to be the focus family in the final film. This family was a great choice, their sense of adventure lent itself perfectly to all the possibilities found on a multi day rafting trip. Each person was excited to hike, swim, try their hand at inflatable kayaks or stand up paddle boarding. Which all lined up perfectly with the story that the producer had envisioned for the films story line. Nushin followed up after the four day trip with a great write up of her and her families experience visiting Dinosaur National Monument and going on their first big river rafting excursion.

Check out her write up here. https://www.visitutah.com/articles/utah-family-rafting-dinosaur-national-monument/

Visit Utah Film Trip — 4 day family guided rafting trip through the Gates of Lodore in Dinosaur National Monument near Vernal, Utah. https://www.jeremiahwattphotography.com/

The film crew was a fun group of characters (in a good way, they all had awesome personalities) with some neat backgrounds in the film arts. Sandra Salvas was the trips producer and organized the components for the film crew. Mike Eldredge of KNHO was the films director and a camera man, Austin Balls was the second camera man and Tony Hagerdorn was the photographer. This crew like I mentioned before knew their stuff. The equipment they brought along was Hollywood quality filming gear, single lenses that cost upwards of $10,000.00, super powerful laptops to download each days footage, really cool solar powered generator from Utah’s own Goal Zero. We knew they were good, because we had the opportunity to view previous works on Utah adventures where they captured the essence of mountain biking the Bears Ear National Monument area, horse back riding in Monument Valley, snow skiing the Wasatch Mountain range. All of the film we viewed in advance was beautifully done.

As always, we the crew departed Vernal in the early dark am hours for Brown’s Park Colorado where we would start our four day journey. After a 2 hour drive we arrived at the Gates of Lodore put in where we unloaded the rig truck and trailer load of gear and began preparing the rafts for the guests and film crew to arrive. This process is not quick and can be quite laborious. It takes a lot of gear and the gear can be heavy, cumbersome to move around on a sandy beach and awkward. This part of the trip has to occur to make all the magic happen, without fully rigged rafts it is tough to take a rafting trip. When all the heavy lifting is done there is always a little downtime between having the rafts ready and when the guests arrive. This is guide time where they get to take care of themselves. Brushing teeth, putting on sunscreen, finishing coffee and breakfast the basics that keep them healthy and functioning well. Guide time becomes very valuable as the summer progresses and the wear and tear of sun, sand and water take their toll on a body.

Once the guests arrive everything goes fairly quick from loading the last bits of gear to securing life jackets and safety speech. You are off the van and on to a river adventure in a small whirlwind of time. This is where for me as a guide of 25 years, the trip took a turn and became really interesting. The interesting turn was the artistic aspect that was brought along by the film crew. As an artist and art teacher it was fascinating to work with the crew in setting up the perfect shots, finding the vantage point that really highlighted the scenery and wilderness found in Dinosaur National Monument. These guys are pro’s, their work is all over Hollywood, the internet, You Tube channels with millions of views. They knew what type of imagery they wanted and were meticulous in obtaining it. The film crew had their own boat that was able to leap frog the rafts and set up in advance to take video and photos. At times the film boat would be an hour or so ahead of us while the film crew would take hikes up above the canyon floor. Sometimes hiking 500 vertical feet or so above us to get some of the most incredible aerial views I have ever seen of Lodore Canyon. This process became rather quick and seamless as we all became a tight crew working on this film project together.

Throughout the filming process, Sandra and her crew amazed us constantly with high tech and low tech camera gear. All the while they were excellent at answering our layman questions as to what this equipment was and why they chose different cameras, lenses or apparatus for particular shots. The tools that really amazed me were all of the Go Pro sports camera accessories. I have several Go Pro cameras and dabble with taking video and photos with some success. The accessories they brought along were game changers in taking action footage. A camera mount you hold in your teeth, this one gets perfect point of view video. A camera housing that takes perfect video at the water level. This half round contraption allowed the camera to have clear focus under and above the water at the same time. All cool items that showed their use when the video was edited out and the awesome shots that they got using these cool tools.

Overall the filming trip had great weather, water levels were perfect, group dynamics were spot on and it was wonderful experience for all of us. The end results are beautiful photographs and extremely high quality video that is fun to watch. After six months of waiting patiently to see the end product we could not be more proud of the whole teams collaboration to create a wonderful artistic work. Thank you must go out to the entire Visit Utah team and Nushin and her family from the Dinosaur River Expeditions crew.

Nature Inspires Creativity

Posted on September 27, 2019 at 4:45 pm.

Written by Dinosaur River Expeditions

Rhythm of the Wild

There’s a debate among linguists and musicians as to which came first: language or music. Without a time machine, it’s a hard problem to solve. But I side with the musicians. Any given day has a rhythm. To hear the music all you need to do is step outside. It is no wonder then that some of our best creative thinking comes from being outside. Often times this creativity blossoms on rafting trip, backpacking adventure, car camping in the southern Utah desert or a neighborhood evening walk.

The day has multiple rhythms, and the year has its own as well, they’re called seasons. But the rhythm I’m talking about has a decidedly musical quality. Birds call it out in the cool morning of day. Insect cries fill the heady heat of the afternoon. Crickets serenade the evening, and owls add their cry. In some places, the calls of animals are so consistent you can set your watch to them. See what I mean by rhythm?

It makes perfect sense then that before we could communicate a complex thought we could recognize the music of our world and riff on it. Of course this is all conjecture. But what’s more than conjecture is how beneficial getting outside is to creative thinking. Our cognitive ability is boosted in manifold ways when we get outside. In the most general sense, we get away from the noise of cities – the traffic, construction, and technological trappings. Once away from these distractions our minds can relax. As we relax we can notice the patterns around us; the fractal nature of leaves, the murmur of running water, how colors change in the Fall. To take it a step further (literally) taking a hike gets our blood circulating, stimulating our minds as well as our muscles. Indeed, studies have shown the benefits of cognizance that exercise has. It’s no wonder then that skiing, riding, or walking in the backcountry clear the mind. Not only that, but having an activity allows us to focus, on the thing we’re doing specifically, which is an important distinction than the many tasks that vie for our attention at home or in the office. Shedding distractions and focusing on one thing is good brain training, and can carry over to the problem solving practices we use in our everyday lives.

Our friends at the Freeflow Institute organize incredible multi-day rafting trips where like minded writers converge and build off of each other in a magnificent outdoor setting. Freeflow Institute is just one of many organized opportunities to get outside and build upon your artistic processes. It is fun to seek out friends or a group that shares similar interests for your outdoor creative ventures.

Looking for a great way to journal your outdoor creative experiences the great folks at REI have shared an excellent video on making your own journal. https://www.rei.com/blog/social/diy-how-to-make-an-adventure-journal

So I encourage you to get outside. And if you can get out for a long day. Are there some trees turning colors earlier than others? Take note of what you see: what kind of plant is growing by the creek? How do you imagine it’s different than others that grow further up the bank? Get out there. See if you can hear the rhythm.

Vernal, Utah Rock Art Sites

Posted on August 2, 2019 at 11:52 am.

Written by Dinosaur River Expeditions

The Uinta Basin, bordered on the north by the Uinta mountains and on the west by the Wasatch mountains, attracts visitors from all over the country. It’s home to King’s Peak, the tallest mountain in Utah, standing at 13,528 feet. Creeks that flow south out of the Uinta mountains all eventually flow into the Green River. In its upper stretches, the Green River boasts blue ribbon trout fishing. Lower down, through the Gates of Lodore and Desolation canyons, the river houses spectacular white water and relics of human history spanning 2,000 years. In Vernal Utah, the largest community in the Uinta Basin, the relics of ancient peoples and pioneers can be found under nearly every cliff face and next to the clear flowing springs.

Where does one begin if they want to take in all these sights? From the town of Vernal you’re within 30 minutes of any number of petroglyphs and pictograph sites that are easily accessible. A quick note on the difference; a petroglyph is carved into the rock, while a pictograph is painted on. (Petroglyphs are ‘pecked’ and pictographs are ‘pictures’ is a handy way to remember). I suggest starting with McConkie Ranch. Head up Dry Fork north of Vernal. It’s an easy 20 minute drive on paved roads. McConkie ranch provides easy access to a number of large panels of Fremont petroglyphs. They are free to view, though donations are welcome. An easy uphill hike takes you within touching distance of the petroglyphs (but don’t touch!). It’s a one mile round trip hike to view all of them, and is an ideal trail for families with young children.

The Fremont people – named after the Fremont River – were nomadic peoples that lived in the area some 2,000 to 700 years ago. They are classified as archaic peoples and were gone before Europeans ever stepped foot on American soil. For this reason, we don’t know what they called themselves. The petroglyphs at McConkie ranch are emblematic of the Fremont style. Trapezoidal figures, with broad shoulders and narrow hips are adorned with headdresses and necklaces, standing in a line with many other figures done in a similar style.

The Fremont roamed around large swaths of present-day Utah leaving numerous petroglyph panels. Another can’t miss spot is Cub Creek north of Jensen, Utah. Again, the petroglyphs here boast trapezoidal figures in decorative garb. There are also pictures of bighorn sheep, lizards, and cryptic symbology whose meaning is anyone’s guess. In fact, no one knows why the Fremont left petroglyphs. They could have been done for religious purposes, or as a message board for other peoples, or even as an attempt to woo a lover.

Another great rock art site accessible by car is McKee Springs located on the Island Park road on the northern face of the iconic Split Mountain. Both Cub Creek and McKee springs are within Dinosaur National Monument, which takes its name from the impressive Dinosaur quarry located at the Jensen entrance to the monument. The monument itself is lousy with petroglyphs, pioneer relics, and fossils. If you find yourself in Vernal, it’s a must see, and has a little something for everyone; whether it be the anthropologist, the archaeologist, or the thrill seeker. Grab a map at the visitor center and take a step back in time for a day.

On our four- and five-day rafting trips through Dinosaur National Monument we encounter multiple rock art sites. Particularly along Colorado’s world-famous Yampa River. This stretch of river canyon was a perfect location for the native peoples to hunt, gather, farm and live a peaceful existence along the incredible canyon walls. A popular stop along this trip is Johnson Canyon where there are several well preserved pictographs tucked up underneath a ledge where they are well protected. Another perfect stop along the river is Jones Hole creek where a four-mile round trip hike leads you to the Deluge Shelter and a wall covered in petroglyphs and pictographs.

Whether you visit Dinosaurland by car or boat there are numerous areas where you will be able to view the beautiful scenery and wonderful rock art.

High Water River Rafting

Posted on April 13, 2019 at 7:07 am.

Written by Dinosaur River Expeditions

If you live anywhere around the mountain west, or you have been following the news then you’ve probably had your eye on the weather forecast this winter. Jackson Hole broke records this year for snowfall in February, Utah is breaking snowfall records in April. Ski enthusiast or not, the snowfall this year has been exciting. It’s some much needed drought relief for one and for those who aren’t the biggest fans of winter, it means a green spring and summer. Lots of snow becomes lots of water flow. Creeks will be swollen to bank full, rare stretches of river – like the Dolores – will have enough water to float down.

A big snow pack means a great rafting season. High water, depending on the stretch of river means big hits in big waves. Current will be strong as long as cfs (cubic feet per second) remain high. So how do you define “high” water? That’s entirely dependent on the stretch of river you’re looking at. Let’s take a look at the Yampa. The Yampa River is a good gauge of what high water looks like for a number of reasons. First and foremost, it is un-dammed. It’s not something we think of often, as most of the major dam building projects in this country happened in the 1950’s. However, there are some rivers that still flow wild and free. No dam means no one has their hand on the faucet, so to speak. This means spring runoff and snow melt run down the head waters and through the river unchecked by reservoirs. Typical high-water season on the Yampa River occurs mid-May to early June and is anywhere from 12,000 – 16,000 cfs through Dinosaur National Monument. After the spring peak, the flows steadily decrease until they hover anywhere from 600 to 12 cfs – too low to raft. This year the river basin that feeds the Yampa is reporting 119% of a thirty-year median. So, what does this mean? Typically, depending on how quickly things warm up as we move into spring and summer, the spring peak will come later and will be more sustained. A more sustained peak means a longer running season generally.

So why all the buzz? Other than the big hits in big white water, the additional water for irrigation and storage in the reservoirs downstream, it’s a huge boon for the environment at large. The native species of the Yampa and by extension the Green and Colorado rivers are dependent on high seasonal floods for spawning purposes. More water brings more nutrient and more sediment downstream, restoring the beaches we love to camp along and feeding the animals we love observing. And while the Yampa may be emblematic of what high water looks like, it is by no means the only river where the water will rage this summer. All across the west snow pack’s are well above their average. Even with dams, side creeks will swell and fill their mother rivers. And reservoirs can only get so full and that water must go somewhere and that somewhere is downstream.

Excited? Good, you should be. I would be remiss in my duties as a whitewater enthusiast if I didn’t urge a touch of caution. When looking to get on the water this year prepare yourself appropriately. This means selecting river runs that are suitable for your ability. Like checking the avalanche forecast, check flows before you go and what they are forecast to do. Make sure you and your team have the necessary equipment to enjoy the whitewater safely. And for any stretches you feel you can’t do on your own, there are experienced and reliable outfitters who are there to ferry you safe and sound down the river. Stay safe and stay excited! It’s our collective passion for these places that keeps them pristine for generations to come.

John Wesley Powell’s 150th Anniversary

Posted on March 9, 2019 at 8:32 am.

Written by Dinosaur River Expeditions

Explorer John Wesley Powell’s 150th Anniversary

When one thinks of Lake Powell, what images come to mind? Smooth sandstone in myriad shades of red and beige? Maybe a houseboat floating on still water, or a jet ski with a water skier in tow? But, do you realize what’s underneath all that water? Or, do you know who the lake was named for? The damn that formed Lake Powell was completed in 1963, and with that Glen Canyon began to recede beneath the mounting water of the Colorado river. However, almost a hundred years before that last bit of concrete was poured into the damn, John Wesley Powell floated through the now drowned canyon as part of a historical expedition.

In 1869 Powell set out from Green River Wyoming on what would be a 3 month journey through the canyons of Flaming Gorge, Lodore, Desolation, Cataract and of course the Grand Canyon. It was the first cartographic and geologic survey of these largely unexplored (to white settlers at least) areas of the desert Southwest. Powell’s party was ill-equipped for the water they encountered. They lost their first boat in Lodore canyon in a rapid that thereafter was named Disaster Falls. One of the party, Frank Goodman, left the expedition on July 6th. He eventually settled in Vernal, Utah, and their raised a family. Three more of Powell’s men left on August 30th, two days before the expedition’s end. Unfortunately these three were never heard from again. Of the ten men and four boats that began the journey, six men and three boats finished it.

Powell wasn’t just an intrepid explorer. He served in the Civil war, where he would eventually gain the rank of major and lose most of his right arm. He was also an accomplished geologist and a professor at Illinois Wesleyan University. On his expedition he was awestruck by the features he saw. How could a river cut straight through a mountain? he wondered. It went against everything we knew about geology at the time. But Powell’s interests weren’t purely geologic, but anthropologic as well. The evidence of the human history, the pottery shards, granaries, and habitations of the Native Americans did not escape his notice. So enamored was Powell by what he saw on that first expedition that in the winter of 1871 he retraced part of that expedition from Green River Wyoming to Kanab creek in the Grand Canyon. Powell saw in the rock the age of our world, how old it was, and how truly dynamic it was. He also saw, with a surprising amount of prescience for his time, that Westward expansion would be limited by access to water.

After his expeditions, Powell went on to educate the public about the things he had seen. In the time of Manifest Destiny, he had a surprising amount of prescience to see that Westward expansion would be limited by access to water. Unfortunately, his ideas and proposed policies on irrigation of the West were ignored due to corporate interests. Famously, Powell stated “you are piling up a heritage of conflict and litigation over water rights, for there is not sufficient water to supply the land.” These words would become manifest forty years later during the Dust Bowl. He would also eventually go on to become the director of the Bureau of Ethnology, a position he held until his death in 1902.

This year marks the 150th anniversary of Powell’s expedition. While Flaming Gorge and Glen Canyon are now underwater, one can still experience many of the canyons of that 1869 expedition in the same way Powell did. Beginning on May 24th the John Wesley Powell River Festival will launch. Towns all along his route will be holding events and festivities to celebrate the man and the impact of his expedition.

Call us today 1-800-345-7238 for details about our 4 day Green River Gates of Lodore trip focused on celebrating the 150th anniversary of John Wesley Powell’s incredible journey along the course of the Green River and Colorado River.

White Water Rafting Things To Consider Before Your Trip

Posted on June 10, 2018 at 9:54 am.

Written by Dinosaur River Expeditions

Whitewater Rafting Things to Consider Before You Go

Whitewater rafting in Utah and Colorado can be one of the most fulfilling and enjoyable summer activities; natural beauty, thrill, human connection and a quick way to cool off in the summer heat. But river rafting isn’t a carefully constructed Disneyland waterpark, rivers are subjects of nature. Here are some ways to help you prepare for the trip, whether it’s a Utah one-day river rafting trip on the Green River or a four to five-day raft trip through the heart of Dinosaur National Monument.

First things first. Always, always, always bring a rain coat. Yes, A rain coat. I know what you are thinking, my river trip is in the desert and I checked the forecast. No rain. Well trust me, river canyons tend to take on their own climate. The weather on the river can be vastly different from the nearest town or even 20 miles downstream. The storms in the desert also typically come in quickly and hard, sometimes for hours at time. I know its glamping, but you will still be outside for the duration of the storm so make sure you bring a raincoat that will keep you dry through the storm. Plus, we’re not backpacking, so you don’t have to carry your extra weight. Just bring it. A good quality rain jacket is also a perfect layer for chilly mornings or evenings around the camp.

Along those lines, you will be outside for the whole time, so, if your trip is for a day or a week make sure you bring a good water bottle that can hook to the boat. Being on the water all day means you are getting double the sun, making it that much more important to stay hydrated. Dehydration can lead to headaches, nausea, vomiting and general anger. Yep, drinking enough water will keep you happier making your vacation more enjoyable for everyone.

It’s nice to feel the vitamin D sink into your skin for a few hours at a time, but again, you are talking about exposure from sun up to sun down out on the river. Sunscreen and sun protection is very important. Nothing ruins a great vacation like a sunburn. Bring a high-quality sunscreen that you apply often throughout the day. Clothing is also great sun protection. A long-sleeved sun shirt, hat with a brim, sunglasses are all helpful for tackling the summer sun.

Now that you are protected from the elements, remember that people are operating these rafts. There are no tracks to keep them in exactly the right place in the water, no seatbelts, and no airbags. While being connected to the earth is part of the beauty of rafting, it also comes with an inherent risk. Don’t worry too much, your guides are trained in not only how to operate the raft, but in wilderness medicine and swift water rescue. The thing you should remember is that they are doing their absolute best and they are trained for an incident if it occurs. Pay close attention to the guides safety speech, listen to their directions and you will have a fabulous trip.

Lastly, remember there might be more to your trip than just the river. Many river trips have beautiful side canyons, archeology, and hiking to explore while you are not on the boats. This can be some of the most memorable experiences and often people leave saying it was their favorite part. Come prepared with good shoes, substantial water bottle, sun protection and be open to your trip evolving into the unexpected. The best trip of your life might not be what you were expecting. Be open to trying new things and connecting with the other passengers.

Now that you’ve got all the details! Let’s go boating!

24 Hours in the Dinosaur era

Posted on April 9, 2018 at 6:56 pm.

Written by Dinosaur River Expeditions

24 hours in the Dinosaur Era

Until mad scientists take Jurassic Park from the green screen to real life Vernal, Utah is the closest you can get to living in the Dinosaur Era. The bones haven’t been converted into living, breathing, teeth bearing dinosaurs. Here in Vernal there is a lot of evidence that the dinosaurs that once called this area home were plentiful and came in all shapes and sizes. Although, there is more than a lifetime of dinosaur and archaeological exploring to do in Vernal, you can pretty effectively transport yourself back in time in just 24 hours. Here is the best way to maximize your time travel.

Start your day in Dinosaur National Monument itself at the Carnegie Quarry, nicknamed the “Wall of Bones.” The Quarry is just a short drive outside of Vernal and it was Woodrow Wilson’s inspiration in 1915 to designate the Monument. The original boundaries just included the area of the bones and its direct surroundings, but was later expanded to include the Green River and Yampa River Canyons. The over 1,500 preserved and restored dinosaur bones are 149 million years old and include a massive stegosaurus neck and allosaurus skull. The truly amazing thing about the Quarry, is that all the bones lie exactly where they were deposited so many millions of years ago. Paleontologist believe that the bones fell into an ancient river system, floated downstream until they were deposited into an eddy, buried in fine river sediment which preserved and fossilized the bones. Think dinosaur graveyard. The building was created so the wall wouldn’t have to be tampered with, leaving humanity to ogle at the remains of the ancient lizards.

After the morning at the “Wall of Bones,” head back into town to the Utah Field House of Natural History State Park Museum, or as locals call it, the Dino Museum. In the car keep an eye out for the town’s mascot, a 25 foot tall hot pink Dinosaur on the right side of the road. The museum is on the left near the center of town. The visitors center immediately reminds you why you’ve come with a massive life-size cast of a 50 foot tall dino found in Vernal. The skeleton is surrounded by windows peering into labs, where paleontologists work on current discoveries. Inside, the museum takes you on a journey through time and geological history. Everything from the first multicellular organisms, into dinosaur era, through ice age, up to Native Americans and now. There are plenty of interactive exhibits for kids including a bone dig and a butterfly hall. Outside the museum is the Dinosaur Garden, with roughly 20 life size recreations of what scientists believed dinosaurs could have looked like in the flesh.

Last, head to Red Fleet State Park to the Dinosaur Track-way. This short hike winds its way through Utah’s red desert to the banks of a reservoir where you can find preserved dilophosaurus footprints. Bring a swimsuit and a picnic dinner for a sunset swim in the beautiful lake fantasizing about what it would be like to see the bones come to life. The creature that made the footprints is real and you see it saunter away from your picnic spot. Across the lake, stegosaurus slurps at the water and a velociraptor swoops down, just above your head.

You may not have a lot of time in your travel schedule when visiting Vernal, Utah for the first time so these are just some highlights. Coming to our area once is not enough you will have to return for incredible whitewater river rafting, single track mountain biking, fabulous hiking and lots of opportunities for camping.

Thank You

Posted on March 17, 2018 at 9:21 am.

Written by Dinosaur River Expeditions

Thank you seems to small.

Only eight letters to express the rivers of gratitude to each of you. It’s laughable that eight would be enough, for without you our lives as river guides would be undeniably different. Let me explain.

Each of you that travels down the river, allows us to live and breathe in this amazing national monument. To feel the tug of flowing water on oars every day, to smell like sunscreen and sweat for months on end, and gasp at desert vistas in every moment. By coming on a river trip you allow us to live the way we wish to live. But more importantly you allow us to feel that we are bigger than ourselves, a part of a history in Dinosaur National Monument while guiding on the Green River and Yampa River.

Each of us become a river guide for a shallow reason, something like: we went on fun vacations with our family as kids, whitewater is a thrill, or even just the novelty of being a river guide. Every guide will admit it, but the reason we stay river guides is because of you. As guides grow more sun crusted we learn more about the river and its surroundings; where different petroglyphs are, who the first person to raft the river solo was, where a dam was almost built and how it was stopped, and the story of the Powell expeditions first trip.

Without knowing it, each time we repeat these stories and facts to you, they become part of our personal history. None of us were on the Powell expedition boating down the Green River Gates of Lodore, but somehow that expedition is as much a part of my history as riding bikes with my brother as a child. Each time we share the river rafting experience of Dinosaur National Monument with you, it becomes our home and its characters our family.

As time goes on, we make our own history: a upside down boat used as a slip ’n slide at Wild Mountain campsite, a guest that cried because they were so grateful to have their family together, a kid dance party on the boat on the windiest day of the summer. And as John Wesley Powell did, you become part of who we are, a character of the river and part of our family. For you, this river trip may be once in a lifetime, but for us, this trip is life, and you are the reason for it.

Thank you for allowing us to create a home and a family here. Thank you for allowing us to love our fellow guides and bosses like we do our own parents and families. Thanks to our families for supporting our unconventional career choices and understanding that the reason we are here, is to connect with a deeper part of ourselves, to become droplets in a massive river system. Thank you for allowing us to feel simultaneously insignificant and vitality important to the universe.

Thank you for letting us share our home and family with you.

In return for completely changing our lives and the way we view ourselves, we give you eight letters. Not nearly enough, but perhaps you will feel that the eight letters we give you, are bigger and so much more important than just letters.

Thank you.

The Dinosaur River Expedition Guides

When you do

Things from

Your soul.

You feel a

River moving

In you, a joy.

-Rumi

Green River Gates of Lodore White Water Dory Trip

Posted on June 11, 2017 at 7:29 am.

Written by Dinosaur River Expeditions

Lodories

Author: Brad Dimock

It was another in a long series of preposterous ideas pursued by Dory Moon Expeditions. The Canyon of Lodore–the steepest, rockiest stretch of the Green and Colorado–in wooden dories full of gear and people. A stretch of water usually so desiccated by Flaming Gorge Dam’s paltry releases that it is all but impassable to hard-hulled boats. We tried it once in 1991, gambling on the annual Memorial Day (-ish) fishery releases, but lost the bet and had to switch to rafts and rumble through on under 1,000 cfs. We tried again in 1995 and won, rowing dories through on a falling release of about 3,500 cfs with only minor damage. But we hadn’t had the nerve to try it again in over two decades.

With several of our core dory crew now in our sixties (we like to call ourselves sexagenarians), we figured there’s not much time to left to do goofy things. So after last year’s wacky Rogue River dory trip’s success (we only crashed three or four boats), we held our breath and gambled on another Memorial Day release, hoping for at least 2,500 cfs to bash our way through.

Imagine our surprise and delight to see the Upper Green River Basin fill to over 250% of normal snowpack over the winter, and find the river running at nearly maximum release throughout the spring. Jackpot.

I headed north, picked up Coop and his dory in Dolores, and headed for Dinosaur. Coming over Douglass Pass we were astonished to see an enormous cinnamon-colored bear tumble into the road, regain his composure, and scramble up the embankment back into the forest. A good omen no doubt. As we neared our goal and the evening light grew richer, we stopped to soak in the glory.

Green River Gates of Lodore White Water Dory Trip — Blue Mountain and whitewater dory boats.

We found Andy and Kate and two more dories doing the same. RJ and Bruce, coming in from other directions, soon joined the sunset party.

The next day at Dinosaur River Expeditions we sidled the top boats over for loading.

Whitewater dory boats at the Dinosaur River Expeditions boat yard.

And the following morning drove to Flaming Gorge Dam, bursting with the water we had so been looking forward to getting. The gage held steady through our trip at over 7,000 cfs. Woohoo!

And away we go. Eighteen innocent clients (well, kind of innocent), six dories, and three rafts full of extraneous gear.

Down through Red Canyon.

A side hike up to Shorty Burton’s old cabin. A log has fallen on hole #2 of his double outhouse.

And the main cabin could use a bit of maintenance.

Camp at Red Creek–such a spectacular place. A wind storm and rain welcome us to the wilds.

Overnight Red Creek went into flood upstream, giving us a two-tone river. The good news is that Bruce, unlike the last two times we camped here, did not have a malarial attack. I think it was because of the large quantities of preventative quinine water and juniper juice we drank that evening.

At Taylor Flat, the old low bridge was finally blown away by the high water of 1983. So what did they do? Replaced it with another low bridge–too low to get the dories under at this high flow. Out come the roller tubes.

After careful measuring, we lined the rafts beneath the bridge with four inches to spare. As a reward, the bridge grew us a tasty morel for an appetizer.

We were back afloat in under two hours, but with a headwind and a long haul across Brown’s Park ahead of us. Here is the old Swinging Bridge. It was always a thrill to drive across as it swung and rippled. You always wondered if it would hold. (Like Amil Quayle’s poem, Stairways–“It feels risky and nice. I’m sure it’ll collapse someday. Somebody might get hurt. I always wonder if this will be the time.”) Well, a few years ago a tractor got the booby prize, and the bridge was formally closed to vehicles. The remains tell the story.

A beautiful evening at Crook Camp.

Best cook crew ever.

Lodore School–a remnant of more populous times.

And the Gates of Lodore open to accept us–one of the more amazing views on any river trip. We’re going in there?

Scouting Disaster Falls, where Major Powell lost the No Name. It goes on and on.

Go that way. But watch out for that.

The mid-section of Disaster was completely huge, but we all bounced through. Camp at Pot Creek.

Leah finds a friend.

Morning story time. We each tell the intertwined sagas of our dories’ lives.

Harp Falls rocks and rolls.

Triplet Falls. More scouting as ice balls fall from the sky.

Melissa shows us the way, pausing to blow us a kiss half way through.

And finally, the crux move. Hell’s Half Mile. So well named. Routinely portaged at great labor until 1922 when Bert Loper said “to hell with it!” and ran it. Fast, powerful, studded with boulders and logs, and endless. A long, busy, difficult run.

The raftsmen show us the way, and Bruce tries to convince us it works for a dory. Wowzers.

And we make it through with only one minor flesh wound. A late but exuberant lunch at Rippling Brook and a walk to the falls.

Evening festivities at Wild Mountain.

A morning hike to a vista above Alcove Brook.

Limestone hike overlook, Green River Gates of Lodore

And Lodore comes to a dramatic end as we hit the Mitten Park Fault and enter Echo Park.

A visit to one of Pat Lynch’s monogrammed caves.

Cooling off in Whispering Cave.

Kate’s sore knee hitchhiking back to the boats.

Steamboat Rock. It would have been a wee island in a large reservoir but for David Brower and Martin Litton’s leadership in defeating Echo Park Dam. Thanks again, guys.

Lunch on the backside of the Mitten Park Fault.

Geology class.

What is RJ looking at?

The Denis Julien inscription. A trapper who plied the Green back in the 1830s.

Evening light at Stateline Camp. We are cautiously optimistic about this voyage. Okay, not that cautious.

Inventing our own parking lot at Jone’s Hole.

While the others hike the creek, I celebrate four years of ukulele abuse under the tree where I first laid hands on one.

We exit Whirlpool Canyon into Island Park. The bison on the wall is there to welcome us.

So are the mosquitoes. They are drilling through Carhartts in this shot.

But the sunset is marvelous.

Marching through the cheatgrass to the Wedding Panel.

Amazing petroglyphs accessible by a scary climb or via sensible binoculars.

Entering Split Mountain Canyon, the final gauntlet.

After a raucous ride through Moonshine, SOB, and Schoolboy Rapids, we stop for lunch. So do the bighorn ewes.

After cutting into Split Mountain, the river parallels the mountain crest, then turns to cut out the far side.

At Split Mountain boat ramp, where most people, eyes looking downward, scurry to pack their boats away and leave, we camp and admire the uncommon beauty.

We spend one final morning cruising the Big W–a winding stretch of river below Split Mountain that offers magnificent views of the cliffs we just exited.

And life-size petroglyphs.

And lichen art.

As we turn south into the gray Mancos Shale, our passengers depart and we push the remaining six miles to Jensen Bridge.

Against odds, the ancient mariners made it through again. We’ll be back in another twenty-two years.

Thanks to Tyler and Jen Callantine of Dinosaur River Expeditions for supporting this madness. And our support crew: Brett Smith, Sweet Melissa Frogh, and young Jacoby. And our stalwart dorymen Andy Hutchinson, Kate Thompson, RJ Johnson, Tim Cooper, Bruce Keller, and myself.