Almost everything you need to Know about the Yampa River
To attempt to explain everything you need to know about the Yampa River through Dinosaur National Monument in one short blog is all but impossible but here are a few of the basics. The Yampa meanders from its headwaters near Steamboat, Colorado through town where teenagers float on tubes, into a narrow canyon with class V rapids where gripped kayakers test their skills, through flat desert until it reaches Deerlodge campground. This is the beginning of the Yampa Canyon and the start of 71 miles of some of the best white water rafting in the Western US. There are entire books written on the importance of the Yampa river to the environmental movement, natural history, and rafting community.
In the early 1900’s the dam craze took off across the United States. There was a belief vibrating through humanity that man could conquer nature, that enough technology had been developed power could be harnessed and controlled for the utility of human kind and there were very few movements to stop the development of public lands. It was in this mindset that the Echo Park Dam was proposed. If this dam would have been built it would have flooded the entire Yampa canyon we raft down today. The story is long, and best told through the misty eyes of a crusty river guide who sees their home flooding with the creation of the dam, but in short: an LA family came rafting down the Yampa and fell in love. They brought the story of the proposed Echo Park dam back to LA where David Brower and the Sierra Club learned of it. Through massive efforts people from a multitude of groups fought to save the Yampa. This became the first nationwide grass roots environmental movement. This makes the Yampa the last major undammed tributary of the Colorado river system. Today almost every soul who passes down the Yampa canyon expresses their gratitude for the Sierra Club helping to preserve the waterway.
Not only is the lack of dam on the Yampa historically significant, it creates an untampered environment for the creatures that call the eastern Utah desert home. Scientist study the animals, bugs, fish and plants in an attempt to see the effects that dams have on river ecosystems. In the 70’s scientist found that the Yampa Canyon was nesting some of north America’s last Paragon Falcons. They tagged and tracked the birds and helped ensure the young would hatch to help repopulate the endangered animals. Today falcons can be seen throughout the river canyon in the summer months.
Beyond environmental history, astronomers study the night sky from Dinosaur National Monument as it is the darkest national monument in the country. Its remote location protects it from the light and air pollution of human existence.
And Even before the River Rats and scientists called this place, home there are 500 years’ worth of Native Americans history, who thrived in the canyons, leaving us to marvel at what they left behind.
The Yampa River is one of the river most dynamic rivers in the country, changing with the natural flood stages of the Colorado snowpack eventually dwindling down to a mild stream as the snowpack disappears. This makes the river exciting to raft and different every time you launch rafts and boats from the put in.
The Yampa River starts high in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, with its headwater originating at roughly 11,000 feet the river snakes it way 250 miles across northwestern Colorado. The Yampa River watershed encompasses approximately 8,000 square miles in Colorado and Wyoming. The river eventually meets the border of Dinosaur National Monument and the Deer Lodge boat ramp where our 4 and 5-day Yampa River adventures begin.
A trip on the Yampa River has to many exciting things to see and do along the journey. One of the highlights of the trip is a great side hike to Mantles Cave. This cave is not only scenic but a very important part of early human history. Mantle’s Cave is a large rock shelter about 400 feet above the Yampa River in the Castle Park area, and a short hike from the rafts. The cave is named for Charles and Evelyn Mantle, who ranched in the area and discovered the cave and its archeological treasures sometime in the early 1900’s.
The cave is only accessible by a rafting trip down the Yampa River and is well protected within the boundaries of Dinosaur National Monument. The cave was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1994.
In 1933 the first archaeological excavations of the cave occurred. The Penrose – Taylor Expeditions from Colorado College mapped the cave, uncovered basketry, corn, squash and pottery.
The University of Colorado Museum visited the cave in 1939 and 1940 where they performed extensive excavations. They uncovered storage pits and a wide variety of artifacts throughout the site.
The Fremont culture who used the area left artifacts typical of prehistoric sites found throughout the southwest. Items like stone tools, chipped stone flakes, Manos or a stone used for grinding and a small amount of grayware pottery.
Food items found in Mantles Cave included dried and pulverized insects, grass seeds, pinyon nuts, squash and pumpkin rinds, beans and corncobs. These items give archaeologists an indication that the Fremont both gathered and cultivated plant foods.
The Fremont also hunted and used a wide range of hunting techniques determined by the finds of fishhooks, arrow points and wooden arrow shafts along with snares and nets. This region of Colorado has a large population of elk, mule deer, small game and birds. Hunting would have been key to survival. The Yampa River itself is home to a large variety of fish species and the native people would have been skilled at catching these fish.
Clothing items found in the cave included buckskin sandals or moccasins, rabbit-fur cloth and a juniper-bark robe. The most incredible find was a bag of ceremonial items. A headdress made of flicker feathers, lined with ermine fur along with slate beads, a blade made of quartzite, feather bundles and a butterfly pendant.
Mantle’s Cave is very important in identifying the Fremont culture. Artifacts found within the cave have dates ranging from 500 AD to 1255 AD. In addition, artifacts from the late Archaic period is represented in the cave with dates ranging from 1770 to 1400 BC.
A trip on the Yampa River is a once in a lifetime experience and Mantles Cave is only one of many wonderful things to see and do along the journey.
Whitewater Rafting Things to Consider Before You Go
Whitewater rafting in Utah and Colorado can be one of the most fulfilling and enjoyable summer activities; natural beauty, thrill, human connection and a quick way to cool off in the summer heat. But river rafting isn’t a carefully constructed Disneyland waterpark, rivers are subjects of nature. Here are some ways to help you prepare for the trip, whether it’s a Utah one-day river rafting trip on the Green River or a four to five-day raft trip through the heart of Dinosaur National Monument.
First things first. Always, always, always bring a rain coat. Yes, A rain coat. I know what you are thinking, my river trip is in the desert and I checked the forecast. No rain. Well trust me, river canyons tend to take on their own climate. The weather on the river can be vastly different from the nearest town or even 20 miles downstream. The storms in the desert also typically come in quickly and hard, sometimes for hours at time. I know its glamping, but you will still be outside for the duration of the storm so make sure you bring a raincoat that will keep you dry through the storm. Plus, we’re not backpacking, so you don’t have to carry your extra weight. Just bring it. A good quality rain jacket is also a perfect layer for chilly mornings or evenings around the camp.
Along those lines, you will be outside for the whole time, so, if your trip is for a day or a week make sure you bring a good water bottle that can hook to the boat. Being on the water all day means you are getting double the sun, making it that much more important to stay hydrated. Dehydration can lead to headaches, nausea, vomiting and general anger. Yep, drinking enough water will keep you happier making your vacation more enjoyable for everyone.
It’s nice to feel the vitamin D sink into your skin for a few hours at a time, but again, you are talking about exposure from sun up to sun down out on the river. Sunscreen and sun protection is very important. Nothing ruins a great vacation like a sunburn. Bring a high-quality sunscreen that you apply often throughout the day. Clothing is also great sun protection. A long-sleeved sun shirt, hat with a brim, sunglasses are all helpful for tackling the summer sun.
Now that you are protected from the elements, remember that people are operating these rafts. There are no tracks to keep them in exactly the right place in the water, no seatbelts, and no airbags. While being connected to the earth is part of the beauty of rafting, it also comes with an inherent risk. Don’t worry too much, your guides are trained in not only how to operate the raft, but in wilderness medicine and swift water rescue. The thing you should remember is that they are doing their absolute best and they are trained for an incident if it occurs. Pay close attention to the guides safety speech, listen to their directions and you will have a fabulous trip.
Lastly, remember there might be more to your trip than just the river. Many river trips have beautiful side canyons, archeology, and hiking to explore while you are not on the boats. This can be some of the most memorable experiences and often people leave saying it was their favorite part. Come prepared with good shoes, substantial water bottle, sun protection and be open to your trip evolving into the unexpected. The best trip of your life might not be what you were expecting. Be open to trying new things and connecting with the other passengers.
Now that you’ve got all the details! Let’s go boating!
Until mad scientists take Jurassic Park from the green screen to real life Vernal, Utah is the closest you can get to living in the Dinosaur Era. The bones haven’t been converted into living, breathing, teeth bearing dinosaurs. Here in Vernal there is a lot of evidence that the dinosaurs that once called this area home were plentiful and came in all shapes and sizes. Although, there is more than a lifetime of dinosaur and archaeological exploring to do in Vernal, you can pretty effectively transport yourself back in time in just 24 hours. Here is the best way to maximize your time travel.
Start your day in Dinosaur National Monument itself at the Carnegie Quarry, nicknamed the “Wall of Bones.” The Quarry is just a short drive outside of Vernal and it was Woodrow Wilson’s inspiration in 1915 to designate the Monument. The original boundaries just included the area of the bones and its direct surroundings, but was later expanded to include the Green River and Yampa River Canyons. The over 1,500 preserved and restored dinosaur bones are 149 million years old and include a massive stegosaurus neck and allosaurus skull. The truly amazing thing about the Quarry, is that all the bones lie exactly where they were deposited so many millions of years ago. Paleontologist believe that the bones fell into an ancient river system, floated downstream until they were deposited into an eddy, buried in fine river sediment which preserved and fossilized the bones. Think dinosaur graveyard. The building was created so the wall wouldn’t have to be tampered with, leaving humanity to ogle at the remains of the ancient lizards.
After the morning at the “Wall of Bones,” head back into town to the Utah Field House of Natural History State Park Museum, or as locals call it, the Dino Museum. In the car keep an eye out for the town’s mascot, a 25 foot tall hot pink Dinosaur on the right side of the road. The museum is on the left near the center of town. The visitors center immediately reminds you why you’ve come with a massive life-size cast of a 50 foot tall dino found in Vernal. The skeleton is surrounded by windows peering into labs, where paleontologists work on current discoveries. Inside, the museum takes you on a journey through time and geological history. Everything from the first multicellular organisms, into dinosaur era, through ice age, up to Native Americans and now. There are plenty of interactive exhibits for kids including a bone dig and a butterfly hall. Outside the museum is the Dinosaur Garden, with roughly 20 life size recreations of what scientists believed dinosaurs could have looked like in the flesh.
Last, head to Red Fleet State Park to the Dinosaur Track-way. This short hike winds its way through Utah’s red desert to the banks of a reservoir where you can find preserved dilophosaurus footprints. Bring a swimsuit and a picnic dinner for a sunset swim in the beautiful lake fantasizing about what it would be like to see the bones come to life. The creature that made the footprints is real and you see it saunter away from your picnic spot. Across the lake, stegosaurus slurps at the water and a velociraptor swoops down, just above your head.
You may not have a lot of time in your travel schedule when visiting Vernal, Utah for the first time so these are just some highlights. Coming to our area once is not enough you will have to return for incredible whitewater river rafting, single track mountain biking, fabulous hiking and lots of opportunities for camping.
Yampa River and its Archaeology: Atlantis of the Desert
Travel back 1400 years when taking a Yampa River raft trip and seeing its amazing archaeology. Imagine that you are walking up and down a river bed gathering food, storing it in a shady cave along with sacred necklaces made from feathers of birds collected thousands of miles from where you are now. You carefully place your fortune of corn, beans and collected berries in a rock box knowing that you will return to this place, turn the corn into flour and retrieve the necklace.
This is a real place, as are its people the Fremont culture. It’s called Mantle cave and is located about a half mile from the banks of the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument. The cave is enormous, 25 yards deep and 300 yards long, shaded almost year-round making it the perfect place for food storage and escaping the weather extremes of Northwest Colorado’s summer heat, spring and fall’s cold. When archaeologist’s first excavated the cave, they found granaries (food storage boxes) full of corn, grinding stones, headdresses and necklaces made from bird feathers founds in South America, beaded shoes and much more.
Mantles Cave is a popular stop along the Yampa River, other stops will lead you to petroglyphs and pictographs, rock art left behind from the early cultures that inhabited the Yampa River Canyon. The Native American rock artwork is identified by it simple boxy shapes. Human figures drawn from tetrahedral bodies, swirls, etchings of big horns sheep, fishing nets, and many more representations of the prehistoric life in the canyon decorate the creamy sandstone walls, beautiful in its simplicity.
Though there is no certainty with the Fremont, theories exist regarding the artwork: that some works are more significant than others, that only elders were permitted to paint the canyon, the painting could have been some kind of ceremony asking for good fortune or advice from ancestors or gods. Or simply entertainment for children, though this last theory, seems unlikely. The panels throughout the canyon appear to be aimed towards purposes. Simple sketches of sheep and fish may indicate good food sources. Another, more intricate panel, nicknamed the wedding panel, is six human height figures holding hands which could have been used for a bonding ceremony. Another, appears to be 20 warriors preparing for battle created from tiny dots, archaeologist believe this panel was likely made by elders asking for blessings or help from gods.
Whatever the Fremont tribe intended with the art work and the way they lived, the mystery is captivating and beautiful. The tribe prospered in this seemingly harsh environment for almost 700 years and then suddenly gone. The remains of the desert Atlantis is worth seeing for yourself.
It’s natural to wonder what the drawings mean: Is the artwork religious, entertainment, markings to remember the way back? Why spend the time to create a paint that would last thousands of years? Why paint the figures they did? The answer: no idea.
Suddenly, 700 years ago, all evidence of the Fremont culture disappears. Many things could have wiped out the community: flood, famine, drought, or competition from another tribe, all theories that circulate among archaeologists today. However, the facts remain a mystery, as no currently living tribe claims the Fremont as their ancestors. Archaeologist’s infer certain things about the way their cultures lived based on the artifacts they left behind, that they were semi-nomadic farmers. Based on the presence of corn in the granaries, the tribe farmed and the tribe moved with the seasons, based on the spread of their artwork throughout the South West, and the feathers integrated into their clothing from South American birds.
The ability to visit these cultural sites along the Yampa River and Green River through Dinosaur National Monument is just one of the fabulous experiences you will have on a multi-day rafting trip when visiting this area of Utah and Colorado. These sites are very important and deserve the up most respect and protection. White water river rafting on the Yampa River may have been your initial reason for booking this adventure. When your trip ends the memories of the incredible archaeology, great times around the evenings campfire, the new friends you have made will forever be etched in your mind.
Only eight letters to express the rivers of gratitude to each of you. It’s laughable that eight would be enough, for without you our lives as river guides would be undeniably different. Let me explain.
Each of you that travels down the river, allows us to live and breathe in this amazing national monument. To feel the tug of flowing water on oars every day, to smell like sunscreen and sweat for months on end, and gasp at desert vistas in every moment. By coming on a river trip you allow us to live the way we wish to live. But more importantly you allow us to feel that we are bigger than ourselves, a part of a history in Dinosaur National Monument while guiding on the Green River and Yampa River.
Each of us become a river guide for a shallow reason, something like: we went on fun vacations with our family as kids, whitewater is a thrill, or even just the novelty of being a river guide. Every guide will admit it, but the reason we stay river guides is because of you. As guides grow more sun crusted we learn more about the river and its surroundings; where different petroglyphs are, who the first person to raft the river solo was, where a dam was almost built and how it was stopped, and the story of the Powell expeditions first trip.
Without knowing it, each time we repeat these stories and facts to you, they become part of our personal history. None of us were on the Powell expedition boating down the Green River Gates of Lodore, but somehow that expedition is as much a part of my history as riding bikes with my brother as a child. Each time we share the river rafting experience of Dinosaur National Monument with you, it becomes our home and its characters our family.
As time goes on, we make our own history: a upside down boat used as a slip ’n slide at Wild Mountain campsite, a guest that cried because they were so grateful to have their family together, a kid dance party on the boat on the windiest day of the summer. And as John Wesley Powell did, you become part of who we are, a character of the river and part of our family. For you, this river trip may be once in a lifetime, but for us, this trip is life, and you are the reason for it.
Thank you for allowing us to create a home and a family here. Thank you for allowing us to love our fellow guides and bosses like we do our own parents and families. Thanks to our families for supporting our unconventional career choices and understanding that the reason we are here, is to connect with a deeper part of ourselves, to become droplets in a massive river system. Thank you for allowing us to feel simultaneously insignificant and vitality important to the universe.
Thank you for letting us share our home and family with you.
In return for completely changing our lives and the way we view ourselves, we give you eight letters. Not nearly enough, but perhaps you will feel that the eight letters we give you, are bigger and so much more important than just letters.
It was another in a long series of preposterous ideas pursued by Dory Moon Expeditions. The Canyon of Lodore–the steepest, rockiest stretch of the Green and Colorado–in wooden dories full of gear and people. A stretch of water usually so desiccated by Flaming Gorge Dam’s paltry releases that it is all but impassable to hard-hulled boats. We tried it once in 1991, gambling on the annual Memorial Day (-ish) fishery releases, but lost the bet and had to switch to rafts and rumble through on under 1,000 cfs. We tried again in 1995 and won, rowing dories through on a falling release of about 3,500 cfs with only minor damage. But we hadn’t had the nerve to try it again in over two decades.
With several of our core dory crew now in our sixties (we like to call ourselves sexagenarians), we figured there’s not much time to left to do goofy things. So after last year’s wacky Rogue River dory trip’s success (we only crashed three or four boats), we held our breath and gambled on another Memorial Day release, hoping for at least 2,500 cfs to bash our way through.
Imagine our surprise and delight to see the Upper Green River Basin fill to over 250% of normal snowpack over the winter, and find the river running at nearly maximum release throughout the spring. Jackpot.
I headed north, picked up Coop and his dory in Dolores, and headed for Dinosaur. Coming over Douglass Pass we were astonished to see an enormous cinnamon-colored bear tumble into the road, regain his composure, and scramble up the embankment back into the forest. A good omen no doubt. As we neared our goal and the evening light grew richer, we stopped to soak in the glory.
Blue Mountain and whitewater dory boats.
We found Andy and Kate and two more dories doing the same. RJ and Bruce, coming in from other directions, soon joined the sunset party.
The next day at Dinosaur River Expeditions we sidled the top boats over for loading.
Whitewater dory boats at the Dinosaur River Expeditions boat yard.
And the following morning drove to Flaming Gorge Dam, bursting with the water we had so been looking forward to getting. The gage held steady through our trip at over 7,000 cfs. Woohoo!
Flaming Gorge Dam
And away we go. Eighteen innocent clients (well, kind of innocent), six dories, and three rafts full of extraneous gear.
Down through Red Canyon.
A side hike up to Shorty Burton’s old cabin. A log has fallen on hole #2 of his double outhouse.
And the main cabin could use a bit of maintenance.
Camp at Red Creek–such a spectacular place. A wind storm and rain welcome us to the wilds.
Overnight Red Creek went into flood upstream, giving us a two-tone river. The good news is that Bruce, unlike the last two times we camped here, did not have a malarial attack. I think it was because of the large quantities of preventative quinine water and juniper juice we drank that evening.
Red Creek campsite on the Green River
At Taylor Flat, the old low bridge was finally blown away by the high water of 1983. So what did they do? Replaced it with another low bridge–too low to get the dories under at this high flow. Out come the roller tubes.
After careful measuring, we lined the rafts beneath the bridge with four inches to spare. As a reward, the bridge grew us a tasty morel for an appetizer.
We were back afloat in under two hours, but with a headwind and a long haul across Brown’s Park ahead of us. Here is the old Swinging Bridge. It was always a thrill to drive across as it swung and rippled. You always wondered if it would hold. (Like Amil Quayle’s poem, Stairways–“It feels risky and nice. I’m sure it’ll collapse someday. Somebody might get hurt. I always wonder if this will be the time.”) Well, a few years ago a tractor got the booby prize, and the bridge was formally closed to vehicles. The remains tell the story.
A beautiful evening at Crook Camp.
Best cook crew ever.
Lodore School–a remnant of more populous times.
And the Gates of Lodore open to accept us–one of the more amazing views on any river trip. We’re going in there?
Scouting Disaster Falls, where Major Powell lost the No Name. It goes on and on.
Go that way. But watch out for that.
The mid-section of Disaster was completely huge, but we all bounced through. Camp at Pot Creek.
Leah finds a friend.
Morning story time. We each tell the intertwined sagas of our dories’ lives.
Harp Falls rocks and rolls.
Triplet Falls. More scouting as ice balls fall from the sky.
Melissa shows us the way, pausing to blow us a kiss half way through.
And finally, the crux move. Hell’s Half Mile. So well named. Routinely portaged at great labor until 1922 when Bert Loper said “to hell with it!” and ran it. Fast, powerful, studded with boulders and logs, and endless. A long, busy, difficult run.
The raftsmen show us the way, and Bruce tries to convince us it works for a dory. Wowzers.
White water dory in Hells Half Mile rapid Green River Gates of Lodore Dinosaur National Monument
And we make it through with only one minor flesh wound. A late but exuberant lunch at Rippling Brook and a walk to the falls.
Evening festivities at Wild Mountain.
A morning hike to a vista above Alcove Brook.
Limestone hike overlook, Green River Gates of Lodore
And Lodore comes to a dramatic end as we hit the Mitten Park Fault and enter Echo Park.
Mitten Park Fault Dinosaur National Monument
A visit to one of Pat Lynch’s monogrammed caves.
Cooling off in Whispering Cave.
Kate’s sore knee hitchhiking back to the boats.
Steamboat Rock. It would have been a wee island in a large reservoir but for David Brower and Martin Litton’s leadership in defeating Echo Park Dam. Thanks again, guys.
Lunch on the backside of the Mitten Park Fault.
Geology class.
What is RJ looking at?
The Denis Julien inscription. A trapper who plied the Green back in the 1830s.
Evening light at Stateline Camp. We are cautiously optimistic about this voyage. Okay, not that cautious.
Inventing our own parking lot at Jone’s Hole.
While the others hike the creek, I celebrate four years of ukulele abuse under the tree where I first laid hands on one.
We exit Whirlpool Canyon into Island Park. The bison on the wall is there to welcome us.
So are the mosquitoes. They are drilling through Carhartts in this shot.
But the sunset is marvelous.
Beautiful evening Island Park campsite on the Green River in Dinosaur National Monument
Marching through the cheatgrass to the Wedding Panel.
Amazing petroglyphs accessible by a scary climb or via sensible binoculars.
Entering Split Mountain Canyon, the final gauntlet.
After a raucous ride through Moonshine, SOB, and Schoolboy Rapids, we stop for lunch. So do the bighorn ewes.
After cutting into Split Mountain, the river parallels the mountain crest, then turns to cut out the far side.
At Split Mountain boat ramp, where most people, eyes looking downward, scurry to pack their boats away and leave, we camp and admire the uncommon beauty.
We spend one final morning cruising the Big W–a winding stretch of river below Split Mountain that offers magnificent views of the cliffs we just exited.
And life-size petroglyphs.
And lichen art.
As we turn south into the gray Mancos Shale, our passengers depart and we push the remaining six miles to Jensen Bridge.
Against odds, the ancient mariners made it through again. We’ll be back in another twenty-two years.
Thanks to Tyler and Jen Callantine of Dinosaur River Expeditions for supporting this madness. And our support crew: Brett Smith, Sweet Melissa Frogh, and young Jacoby. And our stalwart dorymen Andy Hutchinson, Kate Thompson, RJ Johnson, Tim Cooper, Bruce Keller, and myself.
