Utah boasts the greatest snow on Earth, home to incredible national parks, amazing hiking, mountain biking and river rafting. For skiers the powder snow is light and airy, and the mountains have available terrain for skiers of all ability levels. Indeed, there’s good reason the winter games came to our humble little capital in 2002. Salt Lake City – or Small Lake City, as some call it – is within a 30 to 45 minute drive of eight mountain resorts, including Park City, Snowbasin which hosted the men and women’s downhill, and the famous (or infamous) Snowbird and Alta (skiers only). And it’s no secret. During the winter holidays rental shops and hotels are inundated with travelers from all over the county, even the world. But, in this writer’s opinion, they are missing some of the best Utah has to offer.
Something magical happens come March’s end. Slowly but surely the temperature begins to rise, and all that wonderful snow becomes something the desert West needs so desperately. Water. As spring progresses the snow recedes, a color change to give autumn a run for its money occurs. The foothills and mountains bloom into yellows, purples, and greens. In the lowlands incredible flowers start to bloom. The red Indian paintbrush makes an appearance alongside claret cup cactus and the state flower the brilliant white Sego lily making for a spectacular wildflower show. Starting in May before the heat takes hold, checkout Arches and Zion national parks. The smooth rock makes for easy hiking and incredibly mountain biking.
By June most of the mountain trails are dry. Grab a pair of hiking boots and a water bottle and you can easily enjoy the stunning vistas along the Wasatch. Around Salt Lake, there is easy access to any number of trails of differing difficulty. The Bonneville Shoreline trail – so named as it is the ancient shoreline of a great inland sea – is a mellow and planar trail that spans a great distance. As the summer heats up in July and August, head into the Uintas. Speckled with lakes and covered in pines, its a wonderful place to escape the heat. The lakes and creeks support trout, and the surrounding woodland are home to deer, elk, and moose.
The tried and true best way to beat the heat of summer is to grab a paddle and get wet. While your’e in the Uinta mountains, check out Dutch John, Utah and the Green River. Starting just below the Flaming Gorge dam is a gorgeous section of the Green River. This seven-mile section is perfect for the avid fisherman and those wanting to enjoy a scenic one day float trip. Those with a bigger adventure in mind should continue downstream to Lodore Canyon on the Green River through Dinosaur National Monument. Typically undertaken as a four day trip, this section is chock full of side hikes, beautiful sand beaches, and terrific whitewater. For a similar must do adventure, one should take the five day trip down Colorado’s Yampa River also flowing through Dinosaur National Monument. This beautiful sandstone canyon houses the last un-dammed tributary of the Colorado and Green river systems. Here you can see traces of the ancient peoples that once called this place home. There is abundant rock art, and sites that are still home to ancient granaries. As always there is stupendous white water. You’ll get wet, but you won’t get scared.
Whether you are looking for a quick weekend getaway for world class snow skiing or looking for a longer adventure Utah has something for everyone. Try a fully guided Colorado or Utah white water river rafting adventure today.
The Yampa River starts high in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, with its headwater originating at roughly 11,000 feet the river snakes it way 250 miles across northwestern Colorado. The Yampa River watershed encompasses approximately 8,000 square miles in Colorado and Wyoming. The river eventually meets the border of Dinosaur National Monument and the Deer Lodge boat ramp where our 4 and 5-day Yampa River adventures begin.
A trip on the Yampa River has to many exciting things to see and do along the journey. One of the highlights of the trip is a great side hike to Mantles Cave. This cave is not only scenic but a very important part of early human history. Mantle’s Cave is a large rock shelter about 400 feet above the Yampa River in the Castle Park area, and a short hike from the rafts. The cave is named for Charles and Evelyn Mantle, who ranched in the area and discovered the cave and its archeological treasures sometime in the early 1900’s.
The cave is only accessible by a rafting trip down the Yampa River and is well protected within the boundaries of Dinosaur National Monument. The cave was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1994.
In 1933 the first archaeological excavations of the cave occurred. The Penrose – Taylor Expeditions from Colorado College mapped the cave, uncovered basketry, corn, squash and pottery.
The University of Colorado Museum visited the cave in 1939 and 1940 where they performed extensive excavations. They uncovered storage pits and a wide variety of artifacts throughout the site.
The Fremont culture who used the area left artifacts typical of prehistoric sites found throughout the southwest. Items like stone tools, chipped stone flakes, Manos or a stone used for grinding and a small amount of grayware pottery.
Food items found in Mantles Cave included dried and pulverized insects, grass seeds, pinyon nuts, squash and pumpkin rinds, beans and corncobs. These items give archaeologists an indication that the Fremont both gathered and cultivated plant foods.
The Fremont also hunted and used a wide range of hunting techniques determined by the finds of fishhooks, arrow points and wooden arrow shafts along with snares and nets. This region of Colorado has a large population of elk, mule deer, small game and birds. Hunting would have been key to survival. The Yampa River itself is home to a large variety of fish species and the native people would have been skilled at catching these fish.
Clothing items found in the cave included buckskin sandals or moccasins, rabbit-fur cloth and a juniper-bark robe. The most incredible find was a bag of ceremonial items. A headdress made of flicker feathers, lined with ermine fur along with slate beads, a blade made of quartzite, feather bundles and a butterfly pendant.
Mantle’s Cave is very important in identifying the Fremont culture. Artifacts found within the cave have dates ranging from 500 AD to 1255 AD. In addition, artifacts from the late Archaic period is represented in the cave with dates ranging from 1770 to 1400 BC.
A trip on the Yampa River is a once in a lifetime experience and Mantles Cave is only one of many wonderful things to see and do along the journey.
Visiting Vernal, Utah and looking for a family fun activity? We offer an excellent introduction to river rafting with our one day raft trip on the Green River starting from the base of the Flaming Gorge Dam. This river trip is an incredible 7 mile float trip with spectacular scenery, peaceful stretches of calm water interspersed with fun class 2 white water. Our experienced guide staff will meet you at our Vernal location at 8:30 a.m. the morning of your day rafting tour. The guide staff will orient you to what items you may want to bring for the day such as sunscreen, camera, water bottle, light jacket and provide you with a water proof day bag to secure your personal items while floating the river. We typically depart for the river by 9:00 a.m. the drive to the river is approximately 50 minutes. Once at the shore of the Green River the guides will set you up with life jackets, safety speech and provide directions about the rafts being used for the day.
Once you start the float trip the guides will provide you with interpretation about the region, pointing out geology, fauna, plant life and tell stories of the human history that has occured along the river. This corner of Utah has some unbelievable rock formations, the Uinta Mountain Group is the predominant geological formation along the river. This rock is approximately 700 to 800 millions year old. The river itself is one of the top cold water trout fisheries. There is an estimated 8,000 brown, rainbow and cutthroat trout per mile along this section of the Green River. With the crystal clear waters you can see the fish swimming beneath the rafts as you float past. A highlight for young kids. Mule deer, big horn sheep are another common site along the way. Along with a large variety of bird life.
Single day river rafting Utah’s Green River
Rapids on this section of the Green River are rated at Class 2 on a scale of 1 to 6. Class 6 rapids being unrunnable and class 1 water being very calm and peaceful. The class 2 rapids are perfect for beginners, young children they are fun but not scary. A couple of our favorite rapids are Bridge Rapid, Mother In Law and Dripping Springs. Splashy, great waves and lots of fun for everyone.
A deli sandwich buffet lunch served with all of the fixings will be served up mid way on the trip. The lunch spread has a little of something for everyone. Fresh fruits and vegetables, variety of lunch meats and deli sliced cheeses. Treats such as licorice and cookies, lemonade and ice water. Lunch is always a hit after paddling 3 or 4 miles along the river. After a nice lunch stop you will load the rafts and finish the raft trip to the take out location Little Hole.
From here the drive is a little over an hour back to our Vernal, Utah location. This is a popular rafting trip and advanced reservations are recommended but not necessary. We are also a short drive from Park City, Utah which is two hours away and Steamboat Springs, Colorado two and half hours away. Booking a trip is easy you can reserve your day rafting trip on our website or call our office staff to secure your space the day.
For one day or five whitewater rafting is one of the best ways to cool off in the summer heat for people of all ages and experience levels. That’s right, everyone! In the last 30 years, rafting has grown out of its wild and risky days into a family friendly activity. The invention of new safety gear and a better understanding of whitewater has helped the industry mitigate the risks of rafting. On a guided rafting trip the staff will orient you with a solid safety speech at the put in before launching on your one day or multi day river adventure. Whether it is a Utah one day raft trip on the Green River below Flaming Gorge or a 4 or 5 day white water adventure on the Green River or Yampa River through Dinosaur National Monument keep in mind you are potentially far from advanced help. Your guides are trained, certified and licensed but some injuries are beyond their medical training. Being mindful of your actions and thinking safe are key on a river rafting trip. Here are the basic measures you should take for every whitewater trip.
Wear a properly fitting PFD
PFD’s, or life jackets, are the most important piece of equipment in white water rafting. Yes, even more vital than the boat, paddles, or guide. It is a hard rule: do not go on river without a PFD. Unlike lakes or oceans, river water churns chaotically in rapids. Eddies form confusing whirlpools that suck straight down, diagonal waves kicking towards canyon walls, and holes circulate water on themselves creating stationary pockets of water within a system of movement. Fortunately, a snug PFD will remove your need to navigate through this chaos, bringing you thoughtlessly to the surface
The vest should be tight against your chest and shoulders with all the buckles clipped. It shouldn’t come above your ears when you tug on the lapels. The jacket will loosen up over time and when its wet, so be sure to tug on your straps throughout the day and have a guide check that its fitted correctly.
Be mindful
The majority of river trip injuries happen on shore not on the river. Be aware of your movements getting on and off the boats and at camp, hiking stops or lunch. It’s easy to twist an ankle, accidentally slice your hand on a dinner knife, or get a burn from boiling water. Slow yourself down, the river isn’t a race. It will save a lot of havoc if you take a breath before swirling around with a knife in your hand. Also, remember that drugs and alcohol decrease your body awareness and increase the potentially for a clumsy accident. The best way to combat shoreline injuries is simple, pay attention.
Dress to the day
Temperature injuries are some of the most common on the river. In the spring, cold air combined with cold water creates a very real hypothermia threat; and in the summer, the reflective water doubles your sun exposure, increasing the risk for heat stroke. Make sure you check the weather forecast for a general idea of what you should be prepared for going into your trip. If its spring, bring an extra fleece, rain jacket and pants to help fend off the splashing cold water. In the summer, bring a brimmed hat, sunglasses, and even lightweight long sleeve shirts and pants for sun protection. In both cases, make sure you are hydrated and well nourished, fulling your body properly helps give it the strength you need for thermoregulation.
Swim Properly
Similar to the proper use of a life jacket, swimming correctly in the river can help you conserve energy and avoid unnecessary risk. Use the defensive swimming position, floating on your back, looking downstream with your toes out of the water. Although it is an instinct to stop your motion by standing up, this is one of the more dangerous moves on the river. The water is stronger than you, and stopping your momentum is unlikely. It’s best to swim actively towards a raft or use the “noes and toes” defensive swimming position. Remember not to panic, the rapid won’t go on forever.
Speak Up
Much of rafting safety is in your control. Guides are doing everything they can to keep you safe, but a large portion is in your hands. If you are uncomfortable with going on a certain section of a hike or don’t want to take an inflatable kayak down a rapid, that’s okay! Just let a guide know that they will help you. The guides are there to keep you safe. Even if you are cold, hot, thirsty or have a minor cut, let someone know. It’s much easier to combat many small problems than one big one.
Rafting safely is all about small actions that prevent large catastrophes. Don’t skimp on the easy stuff and have fun!
Until mad scientists take Jurassic Park from the green screen to real life Vernal, Utah is the closest you can get to living in the Dinosaur Era. The bones haven’t been converted into living, breathing, teeth bearing dinosaurs. Here in Vernal there is a lot of evidence that the dinosaurs that once called this area home were plentiful and came in all shapes and sizes. Although, there is more than a lifetime of dinosaur and archaeological exploring to do in Vernal, you can pretty effectively transport yourself back in time in just 24 hours. Here is the best way to maximize your time travel.
Start your day in Dinosaur National Monument itself at the Carnegie Quarry, nicknamed the “Wall of Bones.” The Quarry is just a short drive outside of Vernal and it was Woodrow Wilson’s inspiration in 1915 to designate the Monument. The original boundaries just included the area of the bones and its direct surroundings, but was later expanded to include the Green River and Yampa River Canyons. The over 1,500 preserved and restored dinosaur bones are 149 million years old and include a massive stegosaurus neck and allosaurus skull. The truly amazing thing about the Quarry, is that all the bones lie exactly where they were deposited so many millions of years ago. Paleontologist believe that the bones fell into an ancient river system, floated downstream until they were deposited into an eddy, buried in fine river sediment which preserved and fossilized the bones. Think dinosaur graveyard. The building was created so the wall wouldn’t have to be tampered with, leaving humanity to ogle at the remains of the ancient lizards.
After the morning at the “Wall of Bones,” head back into town to the Utah Field House of Natural History State Park Museum, or as locals call it, the Dino Museum. In the car keep an eye out for the town’s mascot, a 25 foot tall hot pink Dinosaur on the right side of the road. The museum is on the left near the center of town. The visitors center immediately reminds you why you’ve come with a massive life-size cast of a 50 foot tall dino found in Vernal. The skeleton is surrounded by windows peering into labs, where paleontologists work on current discoveries. Inside, the museum takes you on a journey through time and geological history. Everything from the first multicellular organisms, into dinosaur era, through ice age, up to Native Americans and now. There are plenty of interactive exhibits for kids including a bone dig and a butterfly hall. Outside the museum is the Dinosaur Garden, with roughly 20 life size recreations of what scientists believed dinosaurs could have looked like in the flesh.
Last, head to Red Fleet State Park to the Dinosaur Track-way. This short hike winds its way through Utah’s red desert to the banks of a reservoir where you can find preserved dilophosaurus footprints. Bring a swimsuit and a picnic dinner for a sunset swim in the beautiful lake fantasizing about what it would be like to see the bones come to life. The creature that made the footprints is real and you see it saunter away from your picnic spot. Across the lake, stegosaurus slurps at the water and a velociraptor swoops down, just above your head.
You may not have a lot of time in your travel schedule when visiting Vernal, Utah for the first time so these are just some highlights. Coming to our area once is not enough you will have to return for incredible whitewater river rafting, single track mountain biking, fabulous hiking and lots of opportunities for camping.
The Green River meanders through the Utah/Colorado border but is so spectacular we had to keep it number 1 on our list. Entering through the Gates of Lodore sends you on a 44-mile expedition through technical whitewater rapids like Hell’s Half Miles, lets you sleep on peaceful beaches, watch the stars swirl around the canyon at night, explore vista hikes that will drop your jaw hundreds of feet back to the river, and let you live among the mule deer and bighorn sheep for a few days. Luckily the river is permitted, so although over 9,000 people apply to go down the river every year, it will never be overcrowded and you’ll sure to have an unforgettable wilderness experience. Once you have experienced a Green River Gates of Lodore trip you will have to come back and see the Yampa River another western river gem located in the heart of Dinosaur National Monument.
Hiking in the Uinta Mountains
This is one of the more underrated mountain ranges in Utah. Just a few hours outside of Park City, the Uinta’s are home to Utah’s tallest peak, Kings peak at 13,534 feet. The wooded area is home to beautiful mountain lakes, wild flowers, and crisp mountain air and due to its high elevation, it stays cooler in the heat of the Utah summers. With plenty of trails for day hikes or backpacking, it’s on the list for a Utah must-see.
Canyoneering in Canyonlands
The slot canyons in Southern Utah are worth getting yourself into. Spend a day hiking through one of the wider canyons, like the Narrows, or hire a guide to take you and your friends repelling down a longer more technical canyon. Be sure not to attempt to do this on your own unless you know what you are doing. The canyons and change quickly with weather and you don’t want to be a search and rescue story. You will more than likely spend some time in Moab while you are there stop in to the local owned outdoor recreation and gear experts Moab Gear Traders.
Backpack the Grand Gulch in Bears Ears
This stunning 52-mile backpacking trip will take you into the heart of Bears Ears. The steep canyon takes you out of this world as you walk past ancient pueblo ruins: everything from granaries and kivas to petroglyphs and pottery shards. It’s believed that Bears Ears was a hub for pre-colonized North America, like and ancient city. Ruins from many tribes can be found throughout the hike, but don’t forget to visit Newspaper Rock on your way out, with hundreds of petroglyphs from centuries of Native Americans.
Fly Fishing on the Green River
The A-Section of the Green River attracts Anglers from around the world. With over 1000 trout per-mile and cold crystal-clear waters, just below Flaming Gorge Dam, you’d be hard pressed to find a better fly-fishing zone in Utah. Float the 7 miles section in a drift boat or walk along the banks of the river along a trail that runs the length of the first section. While the A-section is the most popular, the B and C sections also offer amazing fishing with a few less people. Make a weekend of it and float the A, B, and C sections, reserving a campsite on the riverbanks. Want to learn more about fishing or just need some help with your casting? Not to worry, there is a whole city of fishing guides in Dutch John, Utah happy to take you. Fishing is not your thing but you would still love to see the river, we offer a fantastic scenic river rafting day trip give us a call or book online for Utah one day on the Green River below Flaming Gorge Dam.
Mountain Biking in Vernal, Utah
Vernal is giving Moab a ride for its money. It has something for everyone; easy beginner trails to learn or ride with kids, self-inflicted suffer fest, flowy downhills with a few drops if you are daring, and everything in between. The city sits on the edge of the North-Eastern Utah desert and the Uinta Mountains giving it a uniquely diverse landscape. Within 20- minutes of Vernal in either direction you can ride on Moab Style slick rock or Montana-esque packed dirt in the woods. There are dozens of well-made trails and not as crowded as Fruita or Moab. Head into the local bike shop, Altitude Cycle, for tips on which trails to ride.
Delicate Arch in Arches National Park
This Utah view is iconic for a reason. The three-mile hike takes you along sandstone slick rock, winding through desert half pipes and bowls. It’s a moderately-difficult hike and worth the trek to see the arch in person.
5 Best Canyons to White Water River Raft in Utah and Colorado:
The Yampa
The Yampa River Canyon, sometimes referred to by as a “little Grand Canyon” is potentially the most beautiful place in the state of Colorado. Located just a short distance outside of Vernal, Utah, the Yampa River is an amazing combination of peaceful flat water and big rapids. The bigger rapids are sure be a thrill at any level sending water over your head throughout the trip. The biggest rapid, Warm Springs is one boaters talk about all over the country. The flat water gives you time to explore the waters on paddling your a paddle board or inflatable kayak. Paddling solo truly gives you a feeling of the wilderness and isolation of the canyon. At night, the campsites are typically big beaches perfect for a game of beach volleyball, kids to play, or just enjoying the firelight with the company of your family and friends.
The 700 foot tall white sandstone walls act as a time machine, sending you back a 1,000 years when the Fremont native Americans called the canyon home. Unlike most western rivers the Yampa is free flowing, meaning it looks almost exactly as it did 1,400 years ago. The trip has many stops where you will be able to see 800 year old petroglyphs, ancient storage granaries and maybe a little wildlife like mule deer or bighorn sheep. Beyond the native history, the canyon is a cornerstone for environmental history, at the center of the first ever grassroots environmental movement. This also makes it one of the most competitive private river permits to get in the US.
This canyon truly has it all, epic whitewater, peaceful flatwater, stunning geological landscapes, and history dating back thousands of years. It’s hard to travel through this canyon and not be simply overwhelmed by it beauty.
The Yampa River may be tops on this list but the Green River Gates of Lodore takes a tight number two spot. Both trips are unbelievable and either one is spectacular depending on the time of year you can go rafting. The Powell expedition was one of the first to stare awestruck at the Gates of Lodore on the Green River with a mix of fear and enthusiasm. Today, the reaction to the dark red sandstone at the beginning of the canyon is the same no matter who rafts through the gates of lodore. The aw only escalates upon learning that it is the oldest rock in Utah and Colorado, dating back almost a billion years, predating life itself. The stunning views are matched with amazing white water. At high water (5-9,000 CFS), you are signing up for a “hold on tight” sure to find a thrill adventure and at lower water a family friendly continuous splashy 42 miles.
Cataract Canyon
This is the place to go if you are looking for massive rapids. Just outside of Moab, Cataract Canyon is home to the biggest whitewater in Utah and at high water, the biggest rapids on the Colorado river. At anything above 20,000 CFS (Cubic Feet per Second) three biggest rapids turn into one long whitewater ride, so don’t worry about the desert heat, you are sure to get wet.
Split Mountain
A beautiful stretch of canyon if you are just looking for a day of rafting. This section of river is the last 9 miles of a Green River Gates of Lodore or Yampa River trip through Dinosaur National Monument. The mouth of the canyon gives it the name, as it appears the river is cutting the mountain it half. Multiple layers of rock bend and twist here giving it an other worldly look. The rock formations drip and twist the whole way down the canyon allowing for a common game of “what shapes can you see in the rocks,” in between the fun class 2 and 3 rapids. Remember to ask your guide about the Pirate watching over you in the second half of the river!
Desolation and Gray Canyon
Knock out two canyons in one river trip with this 84 mile float. The Gray/Deso combination is a beautiful river trip in eastern Utah with great views and fun class 2-3 rapids and an abundance of native American history, wildlife and spectacular Utah River Rafting scenery.
The Ultimate Kids Trip: 4th graders and their families get in to the Monument for FREE.
I have the reputation as the “kids” guide at Dinosaur River Expeditions. Every time there’s a trip with someone under the age of 13, they are inevitably my favorite guest (sorry adults). I can talk for hours with a 10 year old about their favorite candy, or listen to stories about the time they rode sleeping bags down the stairs, completely captivated. This fact is the reason that when Dinosaur booked their first trip with more children than guardians, I found myself rowing the kids’ boat down the Green River.
It was a late August Gates of Lodore trip, and we had made it through all the big rapids like Hell’s Half Mile. I volunteered to take the kids’ boat the night before, assuming not all of them would want to come with me. The next thing I knew, I was rowing through Whirlpool Canyon with, no joke, a raft overrun with twelve animated children. We listened to the three Twenty One Pilot songs I happened to have downloaded on my iPod, on repeat, repeatedly. The kids’ faces were caked with seven colors of zinc sunscreen: a creative dad brought them to trick the kids into protecting their young skin from the sun. “War Paint!” They yelled every morning, excited to be decorate themselves; no one questioned what they were at war with…
They stood on the frame, and along the tubes of the boat, with the impressive balance of someone who doesn’t know they should be falling over. They danced (some with terrible kid moves you couldn’t help but love and some who should seriously consider dance as profession) with abandon. “Rapid!” I would yell, pausing the music, and 12 little bodies would suddenly sit down and hang onto “something strappy” on my command. As soon as the rapid ended, they flew back into the frenzied floating dance party.
We floated through the canyon, experiencing our own versions of perfection.
We arrive at camp and the kids scatter, digging in the sand, catching lizards, playing a kind of tag they invented.
A few minutes, later the US Fish and Wildlife Biologists stopped at our camp. They had seen our trip of kids and stopped to treat us with a few cool tidbits about the fish in Dinosaur National Monument. The kids piled onto the boat, the biologists pulled out ten fish from a cooler, and showed them each one before tossing it back into the water. The kids squealed with glee as each fish splashed into the river and swam away.
Doesn’t this sound like a kids’ paradise to you? The billion-year-old rocks aren’t fragile, they can touch everything in sight (except the petroglyphs). The kids won’t care if there is sand in every crevice of their body, about the geology, or the history of the place, but they feel its enchantment. Your family can dance, make s’mores, bury each other in the sand and make new friends. Some friendships will be a fleeting reminder of the freedom you felt on the river: like when you see a lizard you remember the one you caught named Gary. Other friendships might be the kind that last a lifetime. What can I say, the kids and I get each other. I never grew out of my kid phase: I want to touch the water, the sand, the river, breath in the hot air, and believe in magic.
National Parks Foundation seems to understand the kids too, as they started the “Every kid in a Park” initiative. Every4th grader and their families can get into any National Park or Monument in the country for free. The magic in the National Parks is greater than Disneyland and this program allows every kid and their families to experience it.
One of the greatest perks of going on a river rafting trip is the lack of cell phone service and internet connection. Today the average American spends over 10 hours looking at a screen every day and the rise of social media is linked with a rise in mental health disorders among teens. Being unplugged is many guests favorite part of the trip, but it can also be nerve wrecking. Not to worry, you aren’t alone in your fears, and we promise it will all be worth it.
The Anticipation:
Like a college freshman walking into their dorm room for the first time you are filled with questions, nervous, but also excited. What will it be like? It’s the first time my whole family has been unplugged. Maybe I will have service…? Will the internet miss me?
I hate to burst your bubble, but the internet will not miss you. The world of social media will go on to fight another day without you. We recommend you leave your phones in the car (it will make your withdrawals end sooner). Prepare by digging out your old IPod classic and speaker, find a good camera, a deck of cards, and that book you have been wanting to read. If you must bring your phone download a few extra Spotify playlists and delete a few games to make sure there is plenty of room for photos.
But what if something happens while I’m gone!?Not to worry, your guides carry a satellite deivice called an “In-Reach” for emergencies. This means that if something happens in the real world and you NEED to know about immediately, you will. But please keep in mind this is for emergencies only, not to check the score of the Pat’s game.
The Withdrawals:
You are on your way. Your family is lounging in the summer sun, half listening to your guide chatter about the history of Dinosaur National Monument and how old the rocks are, gazing at the beautiful canyon before you. You’re finally breathing easy when your oldest child pulls out his phone to take a snapchat. He realizes that there’s a snap unloaded on his phone. Panic sets in. They weren’t lying, there is no service. Your kids ask at every bend, “Is there service here?” staring at a screen missing the most spectacular views you have ever seen. You’re telling your children to relax and just enjoy the movement and secretly you are wishing you could check Twitter.
The Awakening:
Finally, at camp the first night you’re sitting in mesh chair arranged in a circle on the sandy beaches of the gorgeous Green River next to you. You pretend to read your book, really thinking about the day spent listening to your kids ask all the questions you wanted to…
The chairs around you start to fill and you put down your book to chat. The what do you dos and where are you froms eventually lead to someone asking “Which state has the largest concentration of dairy farms?” Un-googleable, it sparks a lively debate and leads to stories about your childhood summers spent on a dairy farm in Nebraska.
Enjoying the Moment:
All the chairs are full and you watch your children laugh uncontrollably at one another in the firelight. Everything seems to be at peace, a million stars you’ve never seen twinkle above you and silently, you realize that no one has mentioned their phones in hours. You are unplugged. The next three days are full of towering canyon walls, thrilling whitewater, storytelling, and debating which collection of stars is Cassiopeia. You stay up late, loving this time spent with family and new friends, pre-trip worries entirely dissolved.
An Overwhelming Reintroduction:
You float up to the Split Mountain boat ramp at the end of your trip so glad you have unplugged, but just a little curious about what happened while you were gone. You hold your breath to hug your guides goodbye, tearing up a bit, equal parts sad to go and overwhelmed by the smell. Thrilled with the whole experience, you pile into the van back to the hotel. You pull out your phone and it starts to buzz. Bzzzz, bzzzz, bzzz. My God, it won’t stop! 150 group messages from the ladies in your gym class complaining about how sore they are, 30 emails from J-Crew alerting you to another 20% sale, and New York Times notifications roll in one after another! Completely overwhelmed, you realize you told everyone you wouldn’t have service until the next day and you turn off your phone, to enjoy the last few minutes of your unplugged paradise.
It was another in a long series of preposterous ideas pursued by Dory Moon Expeditions. The Canyon of Lodore–the steepest, rockiest stretch of the Green and Colorado–in wooden dories full of gear and people. A stretch of water usually so desiccated by Flaming Gorge Dam’s paltry releases that it is all but impassable to hard-hulled boats. We tried it once in 1991, gambling on the annual Memorial Day (-ish) fishery releases, but lost the bet and had to switch to rafts and rumble through on under 1,000 cfs. We tried again in 1995 and won, rowing dories through on a falling release of about 3,500 cfs with only minor damage. But we hadn’t had the nerve to try it again in over two decades.
With several of our core dory crew now in our sixties (we like to call ourselves sexagenarians), we figured there’s not much time to left to do goofy things. So after last year’s wacky Rogue River dory trip’s success (we only crashed three or four boats), we held our breath and gambled on another Memorial Day release, hoping for at least 2,500 cfs to bash our way through.
Imagine our surprise and delight to see the Upper Green River Basin fill to over 250% of normal snowpack over the winter, and find the river running at nearly maximum release throughout the spring. Jackpot.
I headed north, picked up Coop and his dory in Dolores, and headed for Dinosaur. Coming over Douglass Pass we were astonished to see an enormous cinnamon-colored bear tumble into the road, regain his composure, and scramble up the embankment back into the forest. A good omen no doubt. As we neared our goal and the evening light grew richer, we stopped to soak in the glory.
Blue Mountain and whitewater dory boats.
We found Andy and Kate and two more dories doing the same. RJ and Bruce, coming in from other directions, soon joined the sunset party.
The next day at Dinosaur River Expeditions we sidled the top boats over for loading.
Whitewater dory boats at the Dinosaur River Expeditions boat yard.
And the following morning drove to Flaming Gorge Dam, bursting with the water we had so been looking forward to getting. The gage held steady through our trip at over 7,000 cfs. Woohoo!
Flaming Gorge Dam
And away we go. Eighteen innocent clients (well, kind of innocent), six dories, and three rafts full of extraneous gear.
Down through Red Canyon.
A side hike up to Shorty Burton’s old cabin. A log has fallen on hole #2 of his double outhouse.
And the main cabin could use a bit of maintenance.
Camp at Red Creek–such a spectacular place. A wind storm and rain welcome us to the wilds.
Overnight Red Creek went into flood upstream, giving us a two-tone river. The good news is that Bruce, unlike the last two times we camped here, did not have a malarial attack. I think it was because of the large quantities of preventative quinine water and juniper juice we drank that evening.
Red Creek campsite on the Green River
At Taylor Flat, the old low bridge was finally blown away by the high water of 1983. So what did they do? Replaced it with another low bridge–too low to get the dories under at this high flow. Out come the roller tubes.
After careful measuring, we lined the rafts beneath the bridge with four inches to spare. As a reward, the bridge grew us a tasty morel for an appetizer.
We were back afloat in under two hours, but with a headwind and a long haul across Brown’s Park ahead of us. Here is the old Swinging Bridge. It was always a thrill to drive across as it swung and rippled. You always wondered if it would hold. (Like Amil Quayle’s poem, Stairways–“It feels risky and nice. I’m sure it’ll collapse someday. Somebody might get hurt. I always wonder if this will be the time.”) Well, a few years ago a tractor got the booby prize, and the bridge was formally closed to vehicles. The remains tell the story.
A beautiful evening at Crook Camp.
Best cook crew ever.
Lodore School–a remnant of more populous times.
And the Gates of Lodore open to accept us–one of the more amazing views on any river trip. We’re going in there?
Scouting Disaster Falls, where Major Powell lost the No Name. It goes on and on.
Go that way. But watch out for that.
The mid-section of Disaster was completely huge, but we all bounced through. Camp at Pot Creek.
Leah finds a friend.
Morning story time. We each tell the intertwined sagas of our dories’ lives.
Harp Falls rocks and rolls.
Triplet Falls. More scouting as ice balls fall from the sky.
Melissa shows us the way, pausing to blow us a kiss half way through.
And finally, the crux move. Hell’s Half Mile. So well named. Routinely portaged at great labor until 1922 when Bert Loper said “to hell with it!” and ran it. Fast, powerful, studded with boulders and logs, and endless. A long, busy, difficult run.
The raftsmen show us the way, and Bruce tries to convince us it works for a dory. Wowzers.
White water dory in Hells Half Mile rapid Green River Gates of Lodore Dinosaur National Monument
And we make it through with only one minor flesh wound. A late but exuberant lunch at Rippling Brook and a walk to the falls.
Evening festivities at Wild Mountain.
A morning hike to a vista above Alcove Brook.
Limestone hike overlook, Green River Gates of Lodore
And Lodore comes to a dramatic end as we hit the Mitten Park Fault and enter Echo Park.
Mitten Park Fault Dinosaur National Monument
A visit to one of Pat Lynch’s monogrammed caves.
Cooling off in Whispering Cave.
Kate’s sore knee hitchhiking back to the boats.
Steamboat Rock. It would have been a wee island in a large reservoir but for David Brower and Martin Litton’s leadership in defeating Echo Park Dam. Thanks again, guys.
Lunch on the backside of the Mitten Park Fault.
Geology class.
What is RJ looking at?
The Denis Julien inscription. A trapper who plied the Green back in the 1830s.
Evening light at Stateline Camp. We are cautiously optimistic about this voyage. Okay, not that cautious.
Inventing our own parking lot at Jone’s Hole.
While the others hike the creek, I celebrate four years of ukulele abuse under the tree where I first laid hands on one.
We exit Whirlpool Canyon into Island Park. The bison on the wall is there to welcome us.
So are the mosquitoes. They are drilling through Carhartts in this shot.
But the sunset is marvelous.
Beautiful evening Island Park campsite on the Green River in Dinosaur National Monument
Marching through the cheatgrass to the Wedding Panel.
Amazing petroglyphs accessible by a scary climb or via sensible binoculars.
Entering Split Mountain Canyon, the final gauntlet.
After a raucous ride through Moonshine, SOB, and Schoolboy Rapids, we stop for lunch. So do the bighorn ewes.
After cutting into Split Mountain, the river parallels the mountain crest, then turns to cut out the far side.
At Split Mountain boat ramp, where most people, eyes looking downward, scurry to pack their boats away and leave, we camp and admire the uncommon beauty.
We spend one final morning cruising the Big W–a winding stretch of river below Split Mountain that offers magnificent views of the cliffs we just exited.
And life-size petroglyphs.
And lichen art.
As we turn south into the gray Mancos Shale, our passengers depart and we push the remaining six miles to Jensen Bridge.
Against odds, the ancient mariners made it through again. We’ll be back in another twenty-two years.
Thanks to Tyler and Jen Callantine of Dinosaur River Expeditions for supporting this madness. And our support crew: Brett Smith, Sweet Melissa Frogh, and young Jacoby. And our stalwart dorymen Andy Hutchinson, Kate Thompson, RJ Johnson, Tim Cooper, Bruce Keller, and myself.
